Located on historic Saint Laurent Boulevard, Schwartz’s Deli is regarded as one of the most esteemed Jewish delicatessens worldwide. In an interview with Nu Magazine, Frank Silva, who has been the general manager of Schwartz’s for over twenty-five years and has worked at the deli since he was eighteen, shared how Schwartz’s has remained such an iconic establishment.
Reuben Schwartz, a Jewish immigrant from Romania, initially worked as a deliveryman for other delis. Realizing he could produce a better smoked meat sandwich, he founded Schwartz’s in 1928. Today, the restaurant still uses Schwartz’s original recipe: the meat is marinated in a barrel for ten days, then smoked in the kitchen for eight hours, followed by a four-hour steam schvitz, and then hand-sliced. All food at Schwartz’s is preservative-free and prepared fresh on-site. The deli doesn’t even have a freezer. “It’s home cooking on a large scale,” Silva noted.
Schwartz’s is Canada’s oldest deli still in operation, and Silva attributes its success to its consistent quality. Their signature method has earned Schwartz’s a Michelin Recommendation, although the deli has yet to receive a Michelin Star. “We’re working on it,” Silva said, smiling.
While Schwartz’s has remained largely unchanged since its founding, Silva has implemented some small updates, such as opening a takeout counter to accommodate individuals who are unable to stand in the infamously long line outside the deli. In addition to being focused on accessibility, the deli also remains devoted to supporting its community and engages regularly in charitable work, often donating to hospitals and food banks and catering for local schools.
Despite Schwartz’s commitment to tradition, the surrounding Plateau neighbourhood has changed drastically in the past several decades. When Silva’s father worked at Schwartz’s in the 1970s, businesses in the historically Jewish area tended to be modest storefronts. Now, Saint Laurent is lined by trendy shops, bars, and nightclubs. When asked about Schwartz's longevity in a changing neighbourhood, Silva responded that “people still want great food,” which has allowed Schwartz’s to survive despite the Plateau’s transformation.
While Schwartz’s was a kosher establishment at the time of its founding, the deli only maintained kosher certifications for a few months due to financial hardship. Nevertheless, Jews continued to dine at Schwartz’s. Today, the restaurant does not serve pork and aims to respect Jewish dietary customs as much as possible while prioritizing affordability. It remains a staple of Montreal’s Jewish Community and is a testament to food’s ability to bring families together.
Schwartz’s often serves as a meeting place for those visiting relatives in Montreal, many of whom grew up going to the restaurant. Silva recognizes customers he knew as kids who now dine there with their children. Silva has seen four generations pass through at the deli, exemplifying the Jewish value of l'dor v'dor — from generation to generation.
While being beloved by the Jewish community, Schwartz’s also receives much international attention and praise. The restaurant has inspired a musical with thirteen original songs and frequently attracts tourists from around the world and celebrity guests, including Ryan Gosling, the Rolling Stones, Angelina Jolie, and Pierre Trudeau. The deli has also been partially owned by Celine Dion since 2012. Silva also credits the restaurant’s success to its staff, who greatly care for the restaurant’s customers and food and “are proud to work in such a famous deli.”
Not only is Schwartz’s Deli home to my favourite smoked meat sandwich, but represents the unifying power of food. Many customers write reviews on napkins, which are then pinned to a wall-mounted board in the restaurant's take-out area. Many are in different languages from around the world. Reflecting on Schwartz’s upcoming centennial in 2028, Silva acknowledged that decades from now, the deli “will look exactly the same.” He notes that the restaurant will continue to remain true to its traditional recipe and inclusive culture. Schwartz’s doesn’t take reservations because “whether you’re a millionaire or just getting by, everybody is somebody here at Schwartz’s.”
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