When thinking of traditional Jewish food, falafel is not necessarily the first dish that pops into mind. But over the past 100 years, the fried chickpea balls stuffed into a pita and slathered with tomato and cucumber salad, cabbage, hummus, and tahina have become a staple among Jews, especially those in Israel.
Originating in Egypt about 200 years ago, around the same time the British introduced other fried foods, Falafel quickly spread across the Middle East, including Mandatory Palestine. There, Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants quickly adopted the tasty Arab snack, viewing it as a means of distinguishing themselves from the European diaspora.
Although Mizrahi Jews had been eating falafel long before its adoption by Ashkenazi immigrants to Palestine, Jews cannot claim ownership over the dish. Nonetheless, it has become a Jewish cultural staple. You would be hard-pressed to find someone to tell you that while wandering the streets of Jerusalem or Tel Aviv, they did not come across a Jewish Israeli manning a questionably sanitary falafel counter.
Falafel Yoni, located on St. Viateur between St. Urbain and Clark, brings a taste of this Middle Eastern street food to Montreal’s Mile End. The owner, Yoni Amir, a Jew born and raised in Israel, emulates this classic Israeli experience. So, last Thursday, Nu meandered over to this iconic establishment to try “Montreal’s best falafel.”
Tahina:
Tahina is not just a topping – it's a crucial part of the falafel sandwich itself. Falafel Yoni’s tahina was flavourful, the perfect texture, and applied generously. It reached the bottom of the pita so that every bite had the taste of tahina within it.
Cabbage and Salad:
Though they are often overlooked, fresh vegetables are integral to a good falafel. Cabbage, cucumbers, and tomatoes add the perfect amount of freshness, balancing out the flavor of the dish. The generous amount of vegetables in the falafel salad gave this dish a light and balanced feel.
Pita:
The pita of the falafel did fall apart. Does this mark a thin pita that cannot handle its toppings? Or an overloaded, generous falafel pita? Breaking a pita, to Sophie, seems like the traditional mark of a good falafel sandwich. Falafel Yoni has a sink in the middle of the restaurant for a reason, after all. Despite its eventual tear, the pita was fresh and absorbed the flavours of the tahina and the salad well.
Falafel:
Biting into the falafel feels like being transported back to the best times in Tel Aviv with friends. The crispy falafel exceeded any expectations held for a Montreal falafel order. It wasn’t too spicy, nor too dry. And the falafel balls were well dispersed throughout the whole pita – Yoni has a good recipe!
Za'atar Fries:
Most falafel stands offer sad, overly oily slices of potato that are plopped next to your piece de résistance. But Falafel Yoni defied this stereotype, delivering fries that were not only delicious but original. They were fried to perfection, thin, and dusted with a heavenly amount of Za’atar. The herby, zesty flavor of the fries paired perfectly with the more nutty, savory taste of the falafel and the freshness of its fixings.
Pickle Perspective:
Rather than garnishing my falafel with crisp, paper-thin slices of Israeli Pickle as I expected, Falafel Yoni sprinkled chopped-up cubes into my salad. This was a disappointment, to say the least, and resulted in the pickles getting lost among the heaps of cabbage, tomato, and cucumber. To add salt to the wound, all semblance of crunchiness was completely lost.
Even so, Falafel Yoni is the best place for falafel in Montreal. The friendly environment is reminiscent of the best falafel stands in Tel Aviv, and the affordable prices for the overflowing meals are top-notch. The Thursday night we visited, people streamed in and out, getting their taste of Falafel Yoni’s recipes. Homemade and local, Falafel Yoni should be a must-visit for food lovers of Montreal, Jewish and non-Jewish alike.
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