The inviting smell of warm, freshly baked bagels overtakes me as I step into St-Viateur Bagel, a Montreal staple. The atmosphere is loud, fast-paced, and brimming with passion, reflecting the Jewish culture at the heart of Montreal’s bagel tradition.
The ring-shaped bagel, meaning “bracelet” in German, was a daily bread for Jews in Eastern Europe. Since then, they have become one of the most iconic Jewish foods in cities like Montreal, Toronto, and New York. Bagels arrived in Montreal with a wave of Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe in the early 1900s. Many of these newcomers settled in the northeast of Montreal, particularly in the Mile End neighbourhood, now a hip, cosmopolitan area.
Though the bagel originated in Eastern Europe, it has evolved into a diverse and widely adapted staple. Some prefer New York bagels—supposedly they owe their superiority to the mineral content of the city’s water—but many favour Montreal’s bagels for their use of honey in the boiling process, which creates a denser and sweeter product.
Fairmount vs. St-Viateur: A Montreal Rivalry
Beyond the ongoing New York-vs.-Montreal bagel debate, there’s a fierce rivalry between two of Montreal’s most famous bagel institutions: Fairmount Bagel and St-Viateur Bagel. Fairmount Bagel, located on Fairmount Avenue, opened its doors in 1949, and its origins are the subject of much local lore.
Some say that Isadore Shlafman, formerly a baker at his family-owned shop in Kyiv, brought the very first bagel to Montreal. Shlafman arrived in the city in 1919 and, noticing the critical absence of bagels, began rectifying that mistake. Others credit Hyman Seligman, a Russian immigrant who started a small bakery and sold bagels out of a horse-drawn carriage in Mile End.
By the early 1930s, Seligman and Shlafman joined forces to open the city’s first official bagel shop: The Montreal Bagel Bakery on St-Laurent Boulevard. In 1949, the bakery moved and was renamed Fairmount Bagel.
A few years after its move, in the early 1950s, this partnership dissolved, according to Katherine Romanow, a Jewish food historian and director of food programming at the Museum of Jewish Montreal. Shlafman remained at Fairmount Bagel, while Seligman partnered with Myer Lewkowicz—a Polish immigrant and Holocaust survivor—to open St-Viateur Bagel on St-Viateur Street, just north of Fairmount Bagel.
“Bagels have come to represent Montreal at large,” Romanow reflects, underscoring how these two bakeries symbolize the enduring tradition of Montreal’s Jewish community and the city’s identity as a whole. Today, Fairmount Bagel and St-Viateur Bagel continue to thrive in their original locations, drawing bagel lovers worldwide and fueling the friendly rivalry that Montrealers hold dear.
Where to Find Montreal Bagels
St-Viateur and Fairmount Bagels proudly claim to produce Montreal's tastiest and most authentic bagels. Though the rivalry remains friendly, every Montrealer has their favourite spot—even if it's one of the lesser-known bakeries.
Montreal native Jacqueline Lisbona can't get enough of Dizz Bagels, praising it as her go-to spot thanks to its proximity to her home. “It's so close,” she says, “and the bagels are perfect!” But when she's in the neighbourhood, Lisbona can't resist a stop at St-Viateur for their famously fresh, hot-out-of-the-oven bagels. To her, Montreal bagels are simply unmatched—“the best,” she declares, admiring their “super doughy and dense” texture. Fellow Montrealer Megan Wise also discussed her love for Dizz, hinting that it might be the city's new bagel hotspot.
For those eager to taste this Jewish delicacy, here are a few more bagel shops worth checking out:
Bagel St-Lo – Located in the heart of Verdun, this spot serves authentic, fresh bagels baked on-site and garnished with a variety of delicious toppings.
Le Trou – Perfect for those seeking convenience, Le Trou features a grab-and-go section with ready-made bagels and a range of tasty bagel sandwiches.
R.E.A.L Bagel – A classic choice, known for its early hours—perfect if you’re craving a bagel at 5 a.m.
Brossard Bagel – Famous for its hand-rolled bagels, boiled in a honey mixture and flavoured with maple wood from the Eastern Townships, giving each bagel a uniquely rich taste.
Bagels on Greene – Situated in the heart of Westmount, this shop offers personalized service along with dine-in lunch options and catering services.
MTL Bagel Shop – A 20-year-old establishment known for its handmade, wood-fired bagels, which have a distinctive smoky flavor and char.
District Bagel – This iconic spot boasts a 100% Kosher menu, offering 18 different bagel varieties and five cream cheese options to choose from.
Though the precise origins of the Montreal bagel remain a mystery, one thing is clear: Bagels, with their golden, shiny crust and satisfyingly chewy texture, are a beloved bread that can satisfy any craving.
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